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Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Inky ruby. Intense blueberry, incense, exotic spice and mineral qualities on the expansive, seductively perfumed nose. Stains the palate with spice-laced black and blue fruit, spicecake, olive and violet pastille flavors that show real power and tension and no excess fat. The floral and mineral notes drive a strikingly long, pure finish given shape by…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barbaresco Faset is powerful and wild in the glass. Next to some of the other wines in the range, the Faset is a bit unruly, but that ultimately adds to its character. Spice, leather, tobacco and dried herbs all develop over time. Readers should plan on cellaring the 2015 for at least a…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bourgogne Blanc, unlike the previous vintage, comes entirely from the domaine in Meursault, the 2016 having been supplemented with fruit from the Mâconnais in order to maintain a two-year barrel rotation. It has a well-defined bouquet with scents of apple blossom and hints of coconut and orange blossom. The palate is expressive on…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Good red-ruby. Deep, complex nose combines cherry, raspberry, licorice, minerals and spices. Expansive, silky and sweet, but pure and fresh, with lovely incipient complexity and harmonious acidity. Finishes with firm, toothcoating tannins and terrific persistence. Also built for extended aging.

Burgundy 2024: One Battle After Another

The 2023 Puligny-Montrachet Les Perrières 1er Cru offers lime, nettle and crushed stone notes on the nose, tightly coiled at first but opening nicely with aeration. The palate is a little reductive at the moment, just lacks a bit of bite and doesn’t quite match the aromatics, dipping prematurely at the finish line and leaving…

2000 Vintage Ports (Jan 2003)

Good full ruby. Expressive aromas of black fruits, violet and nuts. Sweet, fat and dense, with rich, slightly medicinal dark berry and shoe polish flavors. Builds nicely toward the back, finishing with smooth but firm tannins, a note of dark chocolate and a touch of youthful austerity.