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Champagne – The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2018)

Henriot’s 2008 Brut Millesime is rich, creamy and super-expressive, all of which make it an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Pastry, apricot, lemon confit, green pear and white flowers all grace this subtle, inviting Champagne from Henriot. The 2008 has enough fruit to drink well now, but also more…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2014 Brane-Cantenac marked the arrival of a new vineyard manager, Pierre Auché. This has a lively, pretty and charming bouquet with redcurrant and wild strawberry scents bursting from the glass. Fine delineation. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with powdery tannins and decent concentration considering the vintage. Black pepper and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Talbot might be one of the most underestimated wines of the Left Bank. This bottle was my own contribution and it outflanked some of the more expensive, better reputed Saint-Julien wines. Captivating on the nose, classical through and through, this is fresh and vibrant, a bit leaner than the Ducru-Beaucaillou though with more…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Recent vintages of the 2005 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux 1er Cru have left me not particularly impressed. In this era, the winemaking duties were undertaken by Benjamin Leroux; this magnum was bought by current winemaker Paul Zanetti. I just find it trying much too hard to make an impression. The aromas are bold and in…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Saturated ruby. Superripe but fresh aromas of black raspberry, licorice and spices, with a hint of more exotic fruits. Sweet but not quite jammy, with very rich and distinctly black fruit flavors complicated by spices and bitter chocolate. A Pommard of compelling depth and verve, with flavors mounting slowly and inexorably to take over the…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Powerful cassis, cherry-cola and floral aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice, vanilla and smoky minerals. Plush and deeply concentrated yet surprisingly lively as well. It offers plush, spice-laced cherry and dark berry preserve, vanilla and fruitcake flavors supported by a spine of juicy acidity. Rounded tannins frame the smoke-tinged finish, which lingers…