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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Montrose has a slightly rustic bouquet but is quite charming. It offers mainly red fruit, bacon fat, undergrowth and peaty scents, which are very Saint-Estèphe in style. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins. It is savory and a little dry, especially towards the finish, though there is good weight, and it is…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Saturated dark ruby. Exotic, port-like aromas of blackberry liqueur, mocha and grilled meat. Fat, lush, saline and sweet, conveying an impression of extreme port-like ripeness. Huge, mouth-saturating flavors of dark berries and chocolate. Not heavy but doesn’t exactly dance on the palate. Does this need years to shed some of its baby fat or will…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, and 2% cabernet franc; 80% new oak; 33 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol; IPT 99; 56% selection for the grand vin Inky purple. Extremely ripe aromas of red fruits macerated in alcohol, espresso and dark chocolate (almost Banyuls- or port-like), with a more refreshing floral element emerging…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is exactly as I predict on the nose, almost overwhelming with over-ripe black plum, raisin, fig and black olive, smudged and lacking the precision and tension of the 2009 Montrose. The palate is sweet and cloying on the entry, hedonistic and voluminous, yet unequivocally bereft of tension and sense of terroir…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pavillon Rouge is in a beautiful spot right now where it is just beginning to show signs of aromatic complexity and nuance. At fifteen years of age, the DNA of the vintage remains – Pavillon Rouge is a potent, hulking wine. Sweet tobacco, cedar, mint, dried flowers and anise add layers of nuance….

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(48% each merlot and cabernet sauvignon plus 4% petit verdot) Bright ruby-red. Very pure aromas of blackberry, cassis, violet and spicy oak. Very ripe and rich in the mouth, with a much more pliant texture than the grand vin Quite chewy on the back end, finishing with broad, sweet tannins and a touch of warmth….