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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1990 Lynch-Bages has a precocious nose, utterly captivating with intense black fruit suffused with iodine and seaweed scents. There is something old school about this Lynch Bages, perhaps not quite as precise as the previous vintage, yet still multi-dimensional. It gains cohesion with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with more structure than expected. There’s…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Lynch-Bages remains the towering Pauillac it has always been, even if Jean-Michel Cazes personally prefers the 1989. It has a riveting, graphite-infused bouquet that is brilliantly defined, very focused and sharp as a razor-blade. Poured directly against the 1990 Lafite-Rothschild, this Fifth Growth beats it hands down. The palate is very well structured;…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Aromatic, vibrant aromas of blackcurrant, bitter chocolate and shoe polish. Chewy, sweet, dense and deep, with the wine strong minerality contributing to the impression of aromatic lift in the mouth. The classiest of these vintages of Lynch-Bages. Finishes with ripe tannins and impressive length. Drink now through 2020.

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Bright ruby. Expressive aromas of raspberry, cherry, blood orange and dried flowers, with an undertone of zesty spices. Very fresh and incisive red fruit flavors are complemented by sweet lavender and rose pastille, and pick up a peppery nuance with air. Impressively balanced, pure wine with a strong finishing jolt of red berry skin. I…

Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

Not to be outdone, the 1995 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru from Domaine Vincent Dauvissat ranks as one of the greatest mature bottles that I have encountered from this esteemed producer. It is blessed with a fabulous bouquet, featuring fresh earth, cockle shells and just a hint of menthol. It’s one of those aromatics that…

Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos: 1983-2015 (Nov 2019)

Full yellow with hint of copper. Exotic if reticent aromas of redcurrant, orange, toasted bread, grilled almond, smoke and stone; not especially expressive but somehow conveys an element of delicacy. Then quite densely packed but juicy and energetic, with an impression of solidity leavened by strong minerality and saline soil tones. Just a hint of…