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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(40% each merlot and cabernet sauvignon, with 20% cabernet franc): Medium ruby-red. Spicy aromas of blueberry, violet, licorice and black pepper. In the mouth, concentrated but tightly wound flavors of fresh blueberry and blackcurrant come across as slightly subdued. This elegantly styled wine is impressively juicy and bright for the year, finishing with a lingering…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2010 Brut Coeur de Cuvée remains one of the great surprises of this generally uneven vintage. Rich and explosive in the glass, the 2010 possesses stunning richness and precision from the very first taste. Lemon confit, exotic flowers, spice and tropical fruits build into a dizzying crescendo of aromas, flavors and textures. What a…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Medium ruby. Aromas of blueberry, mint and white pepper are lifted by a bright floral element. Juicy and intense, with the lively dark fruit and floral flavors currently showing more perfume than flesh. The tannins here are very suave for the year. Finishes clean and long, with lovely repeating floral nuances.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Figeac was quite sullen and unexpressive in its youth and I dished out some parsimonious score. Yet, two recent bottles have prompted me to raise my opinion on this vintage. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and a touch of marmalade. These are aromas with ambition! The palate is…

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Black-ruby to the rim. Remarkably vibrant red and black fruit, mineral, and licorice nose has an almost Chambolle-like framboise tang to it. Massive on the palate; tremendous extract. As dense as this is now, it already shows remarkable clarity and depth of flavor. Powerful structure and length, with extraordinary subtlety of flavor. Based on the…