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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Mission Haut-Brion has a supremely gifted bouquet with vigorous blackberry, pencil box and cedar scents that seem to have moved little since I last tasted it in 2019. The palate is medium-bodied, very ripe and actually much toastier than I remembered. This has pliant tannins and the savory element I picked up…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright, full red. Restrained but very pure perfume of dark raspberry, black cherry, menthol, licorice and black pepper. Dense, silky and suave on entry, conveying a sexy sweetness to its juicy dark fruit, mineral and spice flavors. This wine struck me as comparatively feminine in style, but not for long, as it quickly went into…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Léoville Poyferré, which I had not tasted for a decade, is very harmonious on the nose and features slightly darker fruit than the 2000, offering blackberry, cedar, fresh tobacco and smoke aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, lithe tannins, fresher than the 2000 and more backward. It has a disarming velvety texture…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright ruby-red. Enticing aromas of redcurrant, leather, tobacco, smoke and mint. Silky but firm in the middle palate, with lovely cut and clarity. Sweet currant fruit complicated by leather and tobacco notes. Finishes firm and persistent.

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Gingery sweet oak, black raspberry, black cherry and spice on the nose. Dense and firm, with very good concentration. Expressive and enticing thanks to the very ripe merlot (for the half of the crop that did not go through reverse osmosis, the merlot was chaptalized just a half degree, vs. two for the cabernet sauvignon)….