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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Hudelot-Noëllat owns two parcels, one 30 and the other 70 years of age): Medium bright red. Aromas of black raspberry and licorice are given punch by pungent rocky minerality. Concentrated but still quite tight and wound up; this wine too is carrying a high level of CO2. The tannins are fine-grained but distinctly firm in…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is poured because it was the first wine where the Domaine tried no SO2 during the vinification. It has a lovely bouquet with redcurrant, cranberry and light kirsch scents, touches of orange peel and tangerine. The palate is well balanced with crunchy red fruit, maybe a little rustic compared…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(18 hectoliters per hectare produced): Good full, dark red. Brooding aromas of blueberry, cassis and violet. Finer-grained but more backward than the Echézeaux, showing less early sweetness to its dark berry, black cherry and anise flavors. This sharply focused, youthfully tight wine is unusual powerful for this cuvée. Finishes salty and very long, with a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level in these north-facing vines in Combe d’Orveaux was just 22 hectoliters per hectare): Bright dark red. Pungent, sappy aromas of raspberry and smoky minerality. Dense, sweet and tactile, with its highly concentrated berry flavors enriched by salty mineral extract. Offers terrific inner-mouth tension and lift. Still a baby, but its very long,…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St.-Jacques 1er Cru has more fruit intensity than Jean-Marie Fourrier’s (implying just a slightly later picking, perhaps), offering copious black plum, raspberry, sous-bois and subtle tobacco scents that are beautifully defined. The palate totally delivers: harmonious, succinct, beautifully structured, with perfect acidity that imparts a disarming sense of symmetry, and brilliantly…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright medium red. Captivating high-pitched perfume of raspberry, cranberry and flowers; Then juicy, penetrating and youthfully tight on the palate; plenty ripe and dense, not to mention utterly seamless, but shows rare energy for the vintage, with the tart red berry and crushed-stone qualities of the vineyard lifted by an ineffable floral quality. The slowly…