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Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2006 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after ten days of clement weather when two deluges, 60mm then 40mm, fell within 24 hours after the Merlot had been picked. The dilemma was whether to expedite the picking of the Cabernets, though Alexandre Thienpont decided to risk it and waited. Consequently, he lost…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Good full red. Pure, floral aromas of black cherry and plum are complicated by strong lead pencil and black pepper notes. Suave on entry, then conveys an almost saline sense of extract in the middle, with very good definition and verve to the pretty black fruit, ink and graphite flavors. Distinctly minty on the finish….

Precious Clay: L’Eglise-Clinet 1929–2015 (Jul 2019)

The 2008 l’Eglise-Clinet was picked 1 to 6 October and matured in 80% new oak. It has a very refined and detailed bouquet that is less powerful than the 2009 or 2010, yet there is wonderful articulation of the terroir here, dusky black fruit laced with black truffle and a touch of undergrowth. It is…

Cellar Favorite: 2010 Château Canon (Jan 2024)

The 2010 Château Canon is interesting to revisit today, especially considering the vintages that have come after it, some of which will take their place among the greatest ever made here. Somber in breeding, the 2010 shows more darkness and ripeness than the wines of today, with a stronger oak imprint, all of which serve…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

((an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; 3.6 pH; 75 IPT; 14.8% alcohol) Ruby-red. Floral aromas of strawberry, lead pencil and violet complemented by nuances of cola and white pepper. Then chewy but precise in the mouth, with youthful flavors of strawberry and raspberry jam complicated by kirsch and peppery spices. High but harmonious…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Canon has a curious bouquet that feels a little overripe compared to recent successes (of course, this predating the arrival of Nicolas Audebert.) Hints of prune and dates infuse the red and black fruit that slightly detract from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, but it is…