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Chablis 2009 and 2010 (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Chablis Vaudésir is surprisingly unexpressive and muted next to the rest of the estate’s 2009s. The oak seems to have marked the Vaudésir significantly, flattening many of the nuances.

Chablis 2010 and 2009 (Jul 2011)

Bright yellow with a gold tinge. White flowers, peach and lemon drop on the nose. Firmly built but less generous than the other 2009s here. There’s a hint of dusty stone but not the obvious minerality of the other grand crus, but then these vines are just ten years old. Finishes with a spicy quality….

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Bright, deep, saturated red. Highly nuanced nose combines raspberry, flowers, game, minerals and smoky earth; just a touch reduced. Juicy, minerally and penetrating, with a chewy texture leavened by suave minerality. There’s an utterly captivating restraint-not to mention razor-sharp definition-to the tangy fruit and mineral flavors. The firm tannins of this beauty argue for five…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Moderately saturated medium red. Subdued aromas of red berries, mocha and spicy oak are lifted by a floral quality. Not especially fleshy or sweet but more penetrating than the Clos Saint-Marc, showing good floral lift and more flavor interest. Turns a bit lean and herbal on the back end, though, finishing with slightly dry, dusty…

Germany 2011 (Jan 2013)

Bright aromas of white peach, pine nut and lime. The seductive nectarine fruit and barely perceptible minerality are complicated by smoky spices. Slightly austere, this wine shines with its poise and finesse, boasting good depth and a persistent finish.

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Pungently zesty lime and grapefruit peels meet on the nose, accompanied by quarry-dust chalkiness. On the surprisingly lush palate, tangy pineapple core and juicy, pit-inflected white peach join the citrus peels and dusty chalk. The wine finishes with vibrancy; admirable transparency to chalky, stony, alkaline detail; pronounced piquancy that manages not to turn into outright…