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The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Coste di Rose is a delicate, understated Barolo that will need a bit of time to fully emerge. There's lovely purity to the fruit here, but also some angular contours that need to resolve. The 2018 is a mid-weight wine in the style of the vintage, and yet there is fine balance.

Campania: Change Is Imminent…Or Is It? (Jun 2023)

Dark and brooding in the glass, the 2014 Taurasi Riserva Della Società grumbles up with depths of crushed plum, tobacco and earth tones lifted by balsamic spice and camphor. The longer it spends in the glass, the more complex it becomes, adding licorice, dark chocolate and lavender to the mix. This is elegant with textures…

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

(a blend of 17 parcels) Bright ruby-red. Pungent, perfumed nose melds black and red raspberry, smoked meat, flint and minerals; I would describe this as a Chambolle style of Gevrey. Then fat, pliant and sweet, with a light touch and nice definition to the flavors of red and black fruits, smoke and minerals. Finishes with…

Northern Rhône 2023: The Art of Perseverance (Jan 2025)

The 2023 Condrieu La Bonnette showcases redolent apricot, honeysuckle, banana and white peach tones. Medium-bodied with lifting freshness and spot-on balance, the 2023 is absolutely delicious. This is a magnificent Condrieu. True to Rostaing’s house style, this Condrieu sees no oak and its malolactic conversion was blocked to preserve both aromatic purity and citrus-like acidity.

Vinous Table: Ci Siamo, New York, NY (Mar 2023)

The Vajra family does a fabulous job with all their wines. The Barolo Albe is a mid-tier offering, not as inexpensive as their Dolcettos and Barberas, but also priced below their single vineyard Barolos. It is one of my go-to wines on restaurant lists, as it offers so much value. Done in a forward, fruity…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Arche feels rather reduced on the nose, the light adhesive scents obscuring some of the terroir expression. The palate is viscous on the entry with marmalade and orange peel notes and a slightly waxy texture, although it never quite kicks on toward the finish. That said, I appreciate the spiciness on the…