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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Blagny la Piece Sous Le Bois 1er Cru comes from 0.75 hectares of vine in the lower reaches of the vineyard. This was picked on September 3. It offers brambly red and black fruit on the nose, mixed with potpourri scents; there is good vigor here. The structured palate is medium-bodied with crunchy…

Champagne – The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2018)

Deutz’s 2013 Brut Millésimé is a very pretty wine. Fresh, crisp and inviting, the 2013 offers terrific energy, but also has plenty of depth and creaminess. Pear, apple, citrus mint and white flowers are all laced throughout. The 2013 is subtle and understated, as the Deutz Champagnes tend to be, but it offers fine persistence…

The Magic of 2022 Rosso di Montalcino (Sep 2024)

The 2022 Rosso di Montalcino is a total pleasure to take in as dried strawberries combine with rosemary, sage and crushed stones. It’s juicy and sleek, with ripe wild berry fruits underscored by saline minerals and spice. The 2022 takes on youthful tension toward the close. It tapers off with refinement, still racy and sleek,…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2008)

Good deep ruby-red. Wild aromas of cassis, game, leather and licorice, plus a whiff of band-aid. The distinct wildness carries through on the palate, where the dark berry and game flavors are framed by juicy acidity. This is pretty sauvage, and the finish is a bit edgy with acids and tannins.

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep red. Smoky cherry and redcurrant aromas are complicated by cured tobacco, musky underbrush and licorice. Deep, weighty and broad, with potent bitter cherry and licorice flavors given energy by mineral and dried flower notes. Youthful tannins give this a firm finish, but there’s ample supporting fruit. Still, I’d leave this one in storage for…

2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)

Medium yellow with green highlights. Inviting aromas of marzipan, pina colada, caraway seed and nutty vanillin oak. At once concentrated and brisk, showing lovely ripe peach fruit complicated by licorice and oak spices. The wine’s nectar-like texture suggests a good dollop of noble rot, but attractive racy acidity and inner-mouth minerality prevent it from coming…